This was our plan: leave our centrally located villa each day with our rolling cooler in tow and head to one Provencal village or another to shop for supper, eat a long, leisurely lunch while sipping the refreshing local roses, then tour the local ruins and vineyards. Or perhaps go birdwatching in the Camargue or antique-shopping in Isle sur la Sorgue before heading home in time for the glorious sunsets, where we’d build a fire in the outdoor pizza oven, roast a few vegetables, nosh on sausages and drink more local wine.

But honeymooners that we were, we didn’t make it to a morning market before it closed down until the middle of the first week. Those noon closings were the first hints we had of the famous Provencal joie de vivre, an approach to life that demands time out for lunch, for a nap, for a walk, before heading back to the 35-hour workweek.

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